Thursday 26 August 2010

Day 6 - Puilladobhrain to Oban - the Bridge over the Atlantic - Sunshine!

A thin grey veil of early morning mist hung over the water when the skipper awoke at 8am and started preparing breakfast for the crew. We then loaded the little Seagull outboard motor onto the back of the dinghy and motored round to Dannsa na Mara to pick up Frank and Tanya, before ferrying everyone to the shore where we left the dinghy above the high tide line. The plan was to walk over the hill to the bridge at Clachan (village) which connects the island of Seil to the Mainland over a narrow gut of water which originated in the Atlantic Ocean (hence the bridge's more common name 'The Bridge o'er the Atlantic'). The day was warm and the breeze light as we made our way from the beach, through the marram grass to the path, which is signposted. A short but pleasant walk later and we were at the bridge, looking up and down the picturesque sound of Seil.



The bridge itself is a magnificent humped back stone arch built in 1793. At high tide, small boats can pass under the arch, which clears 12 metres. We were able to buy milk from the hotel at Clachan, and also look around the photo and art shops which, curiously, are unmanned save for an honesty box should you wish to buy something. After a short pause for photos, we made our way back to the anchorage, where we bid our final farewells to Frank and Tanya, before taking the opportunity to explore the shallows around the islets in the dinghy. Clumps of seaweed meant a fouled prop from time to time, but we were able to see some of the nooks and crannies that big boats cannot enter, and it was with some reluctance that we finally headed back to the Good Ship to raise anchor and head out to sea.



Once through the myriad of islets surrounding the anchorage, we set sail with one reef in the main and partly furled Yankee. It was a fetch towards the sound of Kerrera, and a building breeze made for sparkling sailing in the sunshine as we bowled along, the ship sailing with 'a bone in her teeth'. One of our neighbours in Puilladobrain was a Najad 400 which was motoring at full speed towards Oban on our track, and it's skipper took photos of us which, on meeting us later at Dunstaffnage, he promised he would email on at a later date.



As we entered the Sound of Kerrera, the wind dropped away and we motored the final mile or so to the visitors moorings off the Oban Sailing Club. We moored right next to the pontoon, ideal for jumping ashore from the dinghy, which we did in order to collect ship's stores and view the capital of the Western Highlands.



Oban is a thriving town which caters for holiday makers, fishermen and yachtsmen with a large range of Hotels, a Distillery, McCaig's Tower (an unfinished folly) up on the hill, and a good range of shops. We were able to replenish all the ship's stores, and even managed a SubWay 12inch Sub each, before returning to the boat early in the evening. The Skipper managed a shower on deck using the camping shower,  no mean feat given the temperature of the water.



Seaman Finnegan proceeded to catch 7 mackerel using the line we had bought in Crinan Chandlery, and as night fell we barbecued them on the foredeck by the light of an oil lamp. The sky was filled with shooting stars as we ate like Kings, with the freshest fish possible. Oban had been kind to the fishermen on board the Good Ship.

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